Ho Chi Minh City, or locally still referred to as Saigon, is a hectic, congested, polluted, noisy, smelly, hot, sweaty, crowded but fascinating city. I could not survive a month living in this large city of officially six million people (another two million with all unregistered inhabitants included), but it is a fantastic place to visit. Although it is part of the south Asian region, Ho Chi Minh city feels different to its neighboring capitals. The contrast of old and new is more prominent, it is louder and sadly more polluted, surely an effect of the almost four million mopeds congesting every street corner of the city. They travel in groups of hundreds in all form and sizes. It is so prominent that it has become a signature of the city. Men and women wear scarfs over their months to filter the toxic air. At first you think that they are overreacting, or trying to make a fashion statement, but I fully understand them after a few days here. My throat is hurting and my nose is slightly stuffed from all the exhausts and smoke.
Nevertheless, I truly enjoy my stay here. Getting here, on the other hand, was not as pleasant. Bringing a bicycle on board a plane in today's over-protected airports, with lots of equipment, is a tricky challenge. Amazingly after a few repacks, a newly bought return ticket from Vietnam, and lots of ass-kissing, I managed to arrive safely with no additional luggage charges. Luckily, the return ticket, that I was force to purchase was also fully refundable. I will not be needing it as I am crossing into China by bicycle.
Thus, after a almost 30-hour journey it was a relief and great fun to see Daniel as he met me right in the heart of the Pham Ngu Lao area, the pack-packers paradise. We have not seen each other since last summer. He looks the same, but for the tan he picked up in Nha Trang just before meeting up with me. I should also mention that he does look a bit more muscular (should I not, would he certainly leave a clever comment) . Daniel picked the perfect hotel to start our journey. Big and roomy for repacking, large clean bathroom and two separate beds (thank god). The room even has air condition to more easily get used to the heat and humidity at first. This luxury is temporary, though. It gets over 35 degrees Celsius during the day and never really get below 25 degrees at night, but from experience I know that you fortunately do get slightly acclimatised after a short period of time.
My first day was entirely devoted to spending time with Daniel, catching up on all that has happened the past years. A few Tiger and Saigon beers certainly enhanced the conversations, and we talked all day and all night. The following day we spend running various errands buying clothes toiletries and more at the Ben Thanh Market, close to our hotel, and one of the largest market in HCMC. Here you can find just about anything that can be purchased in the city. If you ever go there, stay away from the food section. It has a very particular smell of rotten fish that takes time to get use to. My third day in the city was cultural-day. We visited the major sites, such as the War Remnants Museum (Vietnam War) Reunification Palace (once the symbol of South Vietnam government), Notre Dame Cathedral, and the famous french-style post office.
What about bicycling? We have managed to do a bit of pedalling around the city. However, I do not recommend it during rush hours. Word cannot describe the insanity that goes in the streets of Saigon. You must witness it, or just take a look as Daniel is crossing a ordinary street. Please do not try this at home!
Tomorrow we take the bus to Bao Loc early in the morning, and do some serious cycling in the afternoon. The following day the real adventure begins as we head for Di Lihn and later Dalat.
